Around the World in "Rumbottle"
Part IV: The Red Sea to Changi Sailing Club

The wind had backed 180 degrees while Richard took some uch needed sleep. Rumbottle ran aground on the sand near Aden, and was in danger of being "neaped"

I was most concerned as the moon, and the tides, were on the wane, and any weather from the South would cause disaster. Once again "Himself" was keeping an eye on me. I said "what to do?" and He said "Set the spinnaker" which seemed pretty stupid, with no wind, no swell and 10 degree list, but I hoisted the Cruising "Shute" and, hey presto, a 15 knot breeze from the port quarter sprang up - just like that! "Rumbottle" heeled over a bit, but didn't move, then 3 or 4 swells rolled in, making the keel bump gently. Checking the anchor I found that in those few swells the boat had moved almost up to the anchor, so I picked it up, the wind freshened, another bump, and off, quickly making 6 knots away from the beach. Two or three minutes later the wind died completely, leaving "Rumbottle" becalmed in a flat sea, and no swell. Aden was reached late the following day.

Aden is definately not a "fun: place. It is easy for clearance, has cheap fuel and water and duty-free facilities. If you want them, but very little else. The place is dead, the buildings falling down, rubble everywhere, stores with little in them and no one buying and most "luxuries" (imported goods) very expensive. Local beer cost US$3.00 per bottle. Bank receipts for change of currency had to be produced. The drab colour of the clothes were de[ressing, the only colour being the numerous posters picturing 4 men - obviously Navy, Army and Airforce and a civilian, Leader of The Democratic Republic of S. Yemen. The children were unaffected though, producing gorgeous bright smiles and cheerful comments, often in perfect English, as they passed.

Back at sea after less than 24 hours in Aden, destination Galle. The Indian Ocean was kind, producing lots of fish - Tuna, and my great favourite, Dolphin Fish (no relations to "Flipper"), also called Dorado or Mahe Mahe. The breeze was gentle, mainly NE to N and, helped intermittently by the engine, I made reasonable time.

The "Cardigan Bay", a large container vessel, passed me, and as I knew the Captain from many years ago we had a good yarn on the VHF. 3 hours later the "Osaka Bay" came past in the opposite direction and the Captain, whom I also knew and who'd obviously been warned of my presence, dropped a plastic container over the side as he went past, wiching me good luck. I picked up the container and disvcovered a most welcome bottle of Scotch Whiskey. Great fun!

The light winds became even lighter as the Indian continent was approached but pickep up again between India and Sri Lanka as it funnelled down the strait. After a cracking two days sailing across the strait I finally entered Galle at 0730 on Sunday 29th November and anchored fore and aft, as was the obvious local practice, with 30 other yachts.